Inspired by the days I used to work in fashion, I decided to write a post on a very fundamental topic: fabric structure. Most of us make purchase choices based on how well a piece of clothing looks or fit. So in some ways, you are assessing its properties without even realizing! As many of you are on your own sustainable fashion journey, I wanted to share more resources on how to look for higher quality clothing. This post is all focused on why does fabric structure matter to the quality and appearance of our clothes.
(I also shared a similar post on what to look for in high-quality clothes, which you can read HERE)
WHAT IS FABRIC STRUCTURE?
Fabric structure is essentially the order and system in which yarns are connected to form a textile. In clothing, there are 2 main classifications: wovens, and knits. Woven fabrics are created by the interlacing of separate yarns. Knitted fabrics are created by the interlooping of yarns. They are very easy to tell apart in this way. Knitted materials have a lot more stretch, while woven fabrics are more structured. Automatically, we can see that structure affects the material property!
6 PROPERTIES THAT FABRIC STRUCTURE AFFECTS
This list is not exhaustive, but here are some common traits you can easily recognize while you are shopping. I will go through examples of each of these characteristics:
- Thickness
- Drape
- Luster
- Texture
- Stretch
- Softness
THICKNESS
In general, I recommend feeling a fabric when you go shopping. Does it feel flimsy, and paper-thin? If so, that is usually a great indicator that this piece will not last in the wash. Fabric construction is an important consideration to a material’s thickness. For example, consider pile fabrics—materials that have a raised surface. Corduroy and velvet are common examples. Because these fabrics involve a more intricate production process using more raw material, they are generally more expensive. However, in turn, you get something more plush and durable.
DRAPE
Do you prefer dresses that flow naturally, or those with a defined shape? If you’ve ever wondered this question, it means that you are evaluating the fabric’s drape! Fabrics with very dense constructions have little drape. On the other hand, fabrics with ‘floats’ (a weave where the thread passes over multiple yarns) are more fluid. Satin is a great example—give me all the gorgeous slip dresses!
LUSTER
Drape and luster are many times interconnected. Fabrics that have floats generally possess both traits. In weaving, when a thread passes over multiple yarns, that not only gives the fabric more fluidity but also luster. I think satin serves as a good example again here. One downside, however, is that these fabrics have tendency to snag! That makes sense because individual threads have fewer interlacing points.
You will notice that higher quality satin has a heavier hand, and maybe even feels thicker. These qualities indicate that the material was tightly woven, which reduces the changes of snagging.
TEXTURE & SOFTNESS
The fuzziness of a plush robe, the roughages of a cable knit sweater—both of these describe the role that texture play in our clothes! Since texture and softness are two traits we can easily feel with our hands, I decided to combine them in this section. Sometimes, these textures can be created through the way that the yarns were woven or knitted (such as the example of velvet I shared above).
Other times, sophisticated surface treatments are given to create a special effect on the fabric. I remembered feeling a ‘sand-washed’ fabric for the first time in Banana Republic. Not only did the material have good drape, but it also had a soft sueded feel that I had never seen before. I later learned that ‘sandwashing’ is a special form of fabric surface treatment.
The next time you purchase your clothes, be sure to read the label or online product description! Sometimes there are fascinating details there that help you understand the price. Low-quality clothes are unlikely to incorporate these intricacies.
Sharing a variety of tops with different fabric textures below.
STRETCH
As shared above, knitted materials stretch more than woven ones simply because they are made from interconnected loops. That is not to say, however, that woven materials cannot have any stretch. Fabric density, and thickness play role here too. Woven fabrics also have some degree of stretch along the bias, the diagonal of the weave.
I love this article because it contains some really helpful diagrams to describe both knitted and woven materials.
Note: Spandex adds stretch to fabrics, but for the purposes of this post, we will focus on fabric structure rather than fiber content.
My Top Tips for Identifying High-Quality Clothes
Out of all the questions I receive, this one seems to be the most popular: How can I tell (when I am shopping) whether a piece of clothing is good quality? Hopefully this post shares some good information to consider. In general, I recommend scanning the item for the following characteristics:
- Does the fabric feel thick enough for purpose of what I will wear it for?
- Does it have any special material technologies that contribute to the higher price?
- Is it made from more luxurious fibers? (e.g. silk, cashmere, Merino wool)
- Does it provide me all the qualities I am looking for in a good pair of ____? (Fill in the blanks)
This assessment along with your newfound knowledge of fabric structure will help you make better shopping decisions in the future!
