How to Select the Best Trench Coat Fabric

Two years ago, I invested in this lovely Club Monaco Trench Coat, which I am excited to wear again soon. While a trench coat is an essential piece to a classic wardrobe, the common question exists: Should I go with a 100% Cotton, or Cotton-Polyester trench coat? Fabric is key to achieving the right look. After shopping through my own closet a few stores, I put together a handy guide to selecting the best trench coat fabric this season.

Related Post: The History & Essential Parts of the Trench Coat. This post was last updated 2/23/2023.

OPTION 1: CLASSIC

LEFT: J. CREW ICON TRENCH (2023 Version); RIGHT: BANANA REPUBLIC WATER-RESISTANT CLASSIC TRENCH COAT (SIMILAR)

If you’re unsure where to start, you can’t go wrong with a 100% cotton trench coat. Gabardine is one of the most common fabrics used in high-quality trench coats, pioneered by Thomas Burberry. (Now you know why they’re so popular) This fabric construction is so tightly woven that it has water-resistant properties—the perfect blend between fashion and function.

Trench coats made of 100% cotton also tend to have a more classic, crisp fit, providing a structured silhouette.

Both Banana Republic and J. Crew have great water-resistant options they carry year-round. While I adore both styles, there are some crucial differences.

  • J. Crew: knee-length (for reference, I am 5’6″); simple design without sleeve loops, or storm shield (flap that runs down the shoulders); smooth, tightly-woven fabric
  • Banana Republic (Similar – 2023 Version): shorter length that hits mid-thigh; belted sleeve cuffs; storm shield; has a water-resistant finish
  • Both: fully lined; 100% cotton

I didn’t verify if the J. Crew trench coat was gabardine, but I recall the fabric being very smooth and tightly woven. The Banana Republic fabric, however, was not gabardine. To maintain the same function, the shell has a water-resistant finish.

I’m not in the business of buying a new trench coat any time soon, but given that the price of both are nearly identical, it would be a hard decision for me to pick which one I like better.

OPTION 2: BLEND

LEFT: CLUB MONACO (SIMILAR); RIGHT: COACH (OLD)

Proudly shopped from the family closet 🙂 (Coach trench coat is my mom’s) The detailing is all there: storm shield, sleeve loop, back vent, shoulder buckles (epaulettes), lining. Though what’s interesting is that both use a cotton-blend fabric.

Club Monaco Trench Coat (2023 Version): 62% Cotton, 34% Viscose, 4% Spandex

Coach Trench Coat: 68% Cotton, 32% Polyester

You can visually tell the difference. My Club Monaco trench coat has a little give, which is perfect when I wear layers underneath (thank you, Spandex!). In addition, the viscose adds a bit of sheen to the fabric while the cotton helps maintain structure and rigidity.

Meanwhile, the Coach trench coat is pretty matte in terms of texture. It is also much more wrinkle resistant, which is the main benefit of some polyester in your trench coat.

Here are some timeless trench coat styles that are made from a fabric blend:

OPTION 3: SOFT

BANANA REPUBLIC FACTORY SOFT TRENCH COAT

A soft trench coat can serve as an excellent transitional outerwear piece. There is no hassle with having to button up, and it’s an easy throw-on.

Banana Republic’s Soft Trench Coat Fiber Content: 90% rayon, 10% polyester.

If you couldn’t tell at this point, I organized my options based on how much cotton content is in the fabric, which gets to me to my final point. There are some trench coats that have little to no cotton! In my opinion, that is not ideal. However, for a ‘soft’ trench coat, this option works nicely. Rule of thumb: more rayon/viscose content means more drape.

In this case, the fabric is almost entirely rayon, giving it a very fluid, soft structure.

Here is my round-up of ‘soft’ trench coats I found this season that I thought were cute:

Now to summarize how to select the best trench coat fabric, I put together this handy resource. I hope you find the perfect one this fall!

Vianna

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Vianna

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