Few fashion pieces are as timeless and as versatile as the trench coat. While the piece is still celebrated as a classic icon today, its origin actually predates World War I. Throughout my studies in textiles, one of the things I remember the most is the evolution of how this garment came to be. From the fabrication to all the technical components, I am excited to walk you through the essentials parts of a trench coat. Whether you are on the hunt for one or just curious to learn more about its iconic design, I hope you find this history interesting!
Also before sure to check out of my related posts: The Trench Coat Fabric Guide.
A Brief History on the Trench Coat
Historians estimate that the first development of the trench coat started around 100 years before WWI (source). Rubberized cotton was first used in waterproof outerwear, but had many shortcomings in terms of comfort and smell. Eventually, better materials came along to solve for these issues. In 1879, Thomas Burberry invents a breathable, yet waterproof material called gabardine, which revolutionized the design of British military outfits. This functional coat supported soldiers through life in the trenches, and was colored khaki for camouflage.
It is hard to believe that after all of these years, the trench coat survives as an iconic fashion piece despite its very practical origins. Interestingly, a lot of these functional features are still present in designs we see today. Burberry’s legacy lives on, and gabardine continues to be a luxe fabric used in high-quality clothing.
Technical Parts of the Trench Coat You Should Know
If you’ve ever wondered why the coat has so many flaps and loops, it is because each piece served a critical role during wartime. In modern day, I think these components are a unique reminder of history, as well as a guide for achieving that perfect classic look. Brands that pay attention to quality do a great job of capturing these details in their design. While not every part needs to be followed to the tee, I hope you will use this diagram as a helpful reference in your shopping journey!
The Front
- Gun Flap: Protective flap around the chest that helped deflect rain. A lot of coats today still have this feature!
- Epaulettes: Historically, this feature indicated the rank of a solider. But now, it mostly serves as a stylistic detail.
- Sleeve Loop: Creates a cuff for the sleeve to prevent rain and wind from going through.
- Flap Pocket: The design was meant to create space for holding essentials, while also protecting them from rain and other elements.
- Double-Breasted Closure: Back then, these coats had double-breasted closure (where front flaps overlap) to prevent wind from penetrating. Nowadays, single-breasted versions exist too.
- Collar (with Hooks): Offered protection for the neck
The Back
- Storm Shield: Back flap that supported ventilation (and comfort) of the garment when you sweat.
- Back Vent: Offered mobility during combat, especially when running.
- D-Rings: Used to hang onto weapons for easy access.
Fashion in the Modern Day
Do a lot of these components look familiar to modern day designs? I always find it incredible how the history of the its construction has been preserved throughout history. And now, we have many more options in terms of color, length, and even fabric texture!
Here are some of my picks for the season, including options for all budgets. I hope this post was helpful, and I would love to hear which parts you found most interesting in the comments 🙂
Trench Coats Under $300:
Coats Under $500
