Exciting news on Styled by Science! I’ve been brainstorming different formats of educational content to share in 2024. Since identifying high-quality clothes can be a tricky process, I decided to put together a multi-part series that will analyze different components of our clothes. To kick off this series, I dedicated this first post to something fundamental to high-quality clothes: how to check if seams are well-made. (You can also follow along on my Instagram if you prefer quick reel formats over written posts with visuals.)
Disclosure: This post makes use of affiliate links, which may result in a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.
Why Seams are Important to High-Quality Clothes
One thing that always strikes me in high-quality clothes is their structure and sturdiness. I can think of several pieces that fit the bill: my favorite workwear trousers, or my Theory Blazer. What I love about both of these pieces is that each component is neatly constructed for the perfect tailored look. At their core, well-made seams serve all of these functions and more!
- Seams join fabrics together to create structure and support.
- Seams help to define fit and silhouette.
- They affect overall durability of the garment.
- They can even enhance the visual appeal of your clothes!
With all of these factors considered, you will want to look for signs of a well-made seam as they usually point to better quality and craftsmanship. And the best way to know is by seeing some side-by-side examples, which I share below! (Related Post: My Complete Guide On How to Find High-Quality Work Pants)
Favorite Work Pants: Size 2 | Camel Coat: S
How to Check if Seams are Well-Made: A Visual Guide
Here’s a recent and true story: I took the chance of buying a pair of flare pants online, but ended up returning them because the quality was so far from what I envisioned! Unfortunately, inspecting for high-quality seams is much better done in-person than through online shopping. Hopefully that process is made a little easier with this visual guide.
Sign 1: High-Quality Seams are Sewn Neatly.
A sign of poor workmanship is when a garment is made with flimsy, messy stitches. If you’ve ever walked into an H&M, you’ve probably see pieces where the threads are still sticking out or sewn unevenly. Not only does a poor-sewn seam affect the appearance of a garment, but it affects the quality too! Bad stitching equates to lower durability.
On the other hand, a high-quality garment is sewn such that is maintains a neat appearance both inside and out. That means no raw edges, or poor finishing techniques.
- Example 1 (BAD): Unlined dress with exposed seams on the inside. Fabric is flimsy and wrinkled.
- Example 2 (BAD): Sleeve bunches at the end because the stitching was crooked.
- Example 3 (GOOD): This image shows the inside of a well-constructed blazer. Inside is fully lined to conceal the seams. Stitches are straight, which gives blazer good structure.
Sign 2: The Seams are Reinforced in Areas of High Tension.
When I think of my best blazer, one thing I love is that the shoulder seams are structured securely while still enabling the full range of arm movement. What can be worse than reaching over for something, only to realize that you’ve torn the sleeve to your favorite suiting? This example highlights the importance of having sturdy seams in areas of high tension.
Another area where this detail is important is the side seams of trousers / jeans. We call these area ‘load-bearing regions‘ as they are common stress points where stronger seams are necessary.
In the ‘good’ example above, I showed one of my favorite tailored blazers which I am wearing here. When a piece is made well, you can feel and see the difference from the inside out!
Blazer: Wearing US 2 (linked similar style below) | Pants: 2 | Boots | Tote Bag
Sign 3: Check for a Well-Made Seam Using the Light Test.
If you are shopping in stores, here is a quick test on how to check if the seams are well-made. Hold the seam against the light and see how much passes through. A well-sewn seam should let very little (if any) light through. However, a poorly stitched one will leave holes and gaps, which means lower SPI (stitches per itch). Garments with lower SPI are more likely to fray and are less durable.
Sign 4: A High-Quality Seam Should Sit Flat on the Fabric.
One of my biggest pet peeves is finding garments where the fabric is puckered! (See example below) This defect is especially common with slippery fabrics like ‘satin’ which are harder to sew. Puckering can be prevented when the proper combination of material, sewing technique, and tools are used. Normally when I see puckering, it is due to poor quality control and careless construction.
It may seem obvious, but a high-quality seam should never cause the fabric to bunch up. It should sit flat on the fabric. A brand whose quality I trust is Darling. Their satin slip skirt is one of my favorite pieces because the seams are well-sewn to create the perfect drape (no bunching or puckering!)
