In the realm of animal fibers, there are so many options that it can be confusing to navigate which material is best. However, a recent article from the New York Times opened my eyes to a stark reality: The True Cost of Cheap Cashmere. In an effort to be a responsible consumer, I’ve decided not to purchase any new cashmere pieces, and will instead be opting for Merino Wool as a close alternative. If you’re on the market for new knits, read my Merino Wool vs Cashmere recap below on why I am making the switch.
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One major difference between wool and cashmere is the animal source. Wool comes from sheep, while cashmere comes from the soft underbelly of goats (mostly found in parts of Mongolia and China). Merino Wool is one of the softest forms of wool, but the fibers are still a few microns thicker than cashmere. As such, cashmere wins in terms of softness and loft, making it almost 8 times warmer than Merino Wool.
That said, both fibers carry amazing properties that make them a great choice for winter sweaters. Both are lightweight, odor-resistant (requiring fewer washes), thermal-regulating, and great a wicking moisture. Today, Merino Wool comes the closest in mimicking the feel and warmth of cashmere.
Here are some of my top style picks for Merino Wool this winter:
Since educating myself on the ecological impacts of producing cashmere, I’ve decided that it is not the most ethical choice I can make as a consumer. Thankfully, most of my cashmere pieces are some of the hardiest knits I own and don’t need to be replaced anytime soon. But I take it as a sign that I won’t be buying anything new for a while.
The market demand for not just cashmere, but cheap versions of it has damaging consequences. Unregulated cashmere production can lead to desertification, with land in Mongolia already remaining fragile and precious. To produce enough cashmere, we need larger herds for grazing. Compared to sheep, goats have much more destructive eating habits that can strip the land of vegetation. As a result, the land becomes more vulnerable to soil erosion, and loss of topsoil.
Research points to the fact that cashmere is simply more land-intensive to produce than wool.
Merino sheep are adaptable to extreme climates within Australia and New Zealand. These rangelands are subject to harsh conditions where vegetation typically does not grow. As a result, there is less chance of displacing crop-bearing land, as is the case with harvesting cashmere.
On average, one Merino sheep can produce 8 to 10 sweaters, while it takes 5-6 cashmere goats to make 1 sweater. Because cashmere yield is so much lower, we need additional herd to meet the market demand, contributing to overgrazing and desertification. Current research shows that Merino Wool is more economical to produce, while minimizing ecological impact. Since Merino Wool is more abundant than cashmere, the pieces are slightly more affordable too
What other options from cashmere do we have? Thankfully, if you are looking to make a wardrobe pivot, there are a few viable options. The first is recycled cashmere. One brand that has adopted this practice is Everlane, with their line of ReCashmere pieces. Old garments are separated by color, and re-spun into new yarn. What I love about this innovative process is that they don’t re-dye fabrics, thus reducing further waste in production!
Another option is purchasing wool pieces that have the Responsible Wool Standard certification, or other marks of traceability and transparency. For example, I love Theory’s ‘Good Wool’ fabric, which is ethically sourced and high-quality Merino wool. All fibers come from an expertly run farm in Tasmania, where animals are allowed to roam freely and are sheared with skill and care.
Lastly, another way to enjoy cashmere more sustainably is to obviously shop vintage or secondhand. Because the fibers are so delicate and the piece has had a longer history, you will need to handle your clothes with even gentler care. One product I love is Dirty Labs Delicate Hand-Wash Detergent (use code SBSCIENCE for 15% off your purchase). You can read my review of it HERE.
This detergent has been able to clean my most delicate pieces (e.g. wool, cashmere, silk), and is the formulation is all bio-based too!
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